Hello again,
I just popped on to post the valves I'm looking at and get your approval on them. Milwaukee's 570 200 WSP for the throttle http://www.milwaukeevalve.com/data/pdf/570.pdf and 572 300 WSP http://www.milwaukeevalve.com/data/pdf/572.pdf for the boiler connections. Also found a glass I like at boilersupplies.com here: http://www.boilersupplies.com/water-gau ... 0-200.html I'll go with the 20-250 and just swap out the hand wheels if they are ugly.
I'm heading over to our farm today to hunt out a steam propeller that is apparently laying around.
I'll post pictures If I find it.
Josh
From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
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farmerden
- Stirring the Pot
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- Boat Name: Steam Queen
- Location: Shawnigan Lake B.C. Canada
Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
Hi Josh consider ball checks in the site glass.If the glass should break these rush out and close of the rush of steam til you can shut down the valve.Also pack spare glass and seals.Cut the glass to length ahead of time and you can be back in business in no time! Den
Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
Yep that glass has built in checks. And the spare glass will find a nice home in a seat locker I'm sure.
Unfortunately we didn't have time to sniff out the propeller, garage building took the priority. Maybe next time.
Josh
Unfortunately we didn't have time to sniff out the propeller, garage building took the priority. Maybe next time.
Josh
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fredrosse
- Full Steam Ahead
- Posts: 1925
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- Boat Name: Margaret S.
- Location: Phila PA USA
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Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
You should also put in three "Try Cocks" to test the boiler water level when the sight glass is out of service. Its sometimes difficult to change the glass when the wind is blowing and the waves are high.
For very small boilers I use 1/8 inch NPT radiator vents, but for a steam launch you can use small brass bar stock angle valves, commonly found with 1/4 inch OD tubing compression fitting outlet connection. A short piece of copper tube is fitted to direct the discharges to a safe point.
You could also use the fancy high priced ones, about $30 each at retail. I found the try cocks and sight glass (250 PSI ASME Rated) by lurking on e-bay. About $400 retail, bought on ebay for $65.
For very small boilers I use 1/8 inch NPT radiator vents, but for a steam launch you can use small brass bar stock angle valves, commonly found with 1/4 inch OD tubing compression fitting outlet connection. A short piece of copper tube is fitted to direct the discharges to a safe point.
You could also use the fancy high priced ones, about $30 each at retail. I found the try cocks and sight glass (250 PSI ASME Rated) by lurking on e-bay. About $400 retail, bought on ebay for $65.
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- Margaret S Water Column
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Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
Hey can I use these for my connections? http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ku=0472470
I'd need 7 in half inch. 1 for main steam, 1 for aux steam, 2 for the glass, 3 for try cocks mounted to the boiler. What size is standard for blow down? 3/4 inch or 1 inch? I need to look into safeties still but if someone experienced could tell me what size safety I need I'd very much appreciate it. Finally do I want a 1/2 inch feed water or a size smaller 3/8 maybe?
Found a long piece of 1 inch brass hexagon bar, it will soon be a atomizing burner... I'll take pictures and start a new topic in non engines and boilers.
Josh
I'd need 7 in half inch. 1 for main steam, 1 for aux steam, 2 for the glass, 3 for try cocks mounted to the boiler. What size is standard for blow down? 3/4 inch or 1 inch? I need to look into safeties still but if someone experienced could tell me what size safety I need I'd very much appreciate it. Finally do I want a 1/2 inch feed water or a size smaller 3/8 maybe?
Found a long piece of 1 inch brass hexagon bar, it will soon be a atomizing burner... I'll take pictures and start a new topic in non engines and boilers.
Josh
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fredrosse
- Full Steam Ahead
- Posts: 1925
- Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:34 am
- Boat Name: Margaret S.
- Location: Phila PA USA
- Contact:
Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
Hey can I use these for my connections?
ANS: These are Schedule 80 steel half couplings, the price listed there is way too high, check around.
Many use these for boiler connections on non-ASME Code boilers. To meet Code, use 3000 # Thread-o-lets, A-105 material.
I'd need 7 in half inch. 1 for main steam, 1 for aux steam, 2 for the glass, 3 for try cocks mounted to the boiler.
ANS: OK, 1/4 or 3/8 for try cocks would be OK too.
What size is standard for blow down? 3/4 inch or 1 inch?
ANS: Put in at least 2 x 1 inch washout connections near bottom of shell. Plug these with 1 x 1/2 bushings and you have 2 blowdown connections, each 1/2 inch.
I need to look into safeties still but if someone experienced could tell me what size safety I need I'd very much appreciate it.
ANS: 1/2 inch safety connection is right. The smallest size will pass far more steam than your boiler will generate. Conbranco makes a 3/8 valve, but all the other manufacturers make 1/2 as the smallest offering, so use 1/2 inch. You can always bush down if you get a 3/8 valve.
Finally do I want a 1/2 inch feed water or a size smaller 3/8 maybe?
ANS: Use 1/2 inch feedwater connection, 3/8 would be OK, but you probably will put a smaller tube inside the shell thru this connection to distribute the feedwater.
Found a long piece of 1 inch brass hexagon bar, it will soon be a atomizing burner... I'll take pictures and start a new topic in non engines and boilers.
ANS: A new topic for burners should go into: Technical - Engines & Boilers, I would think, as this is really part of the boiler.
ANS: These are Schedule 80 steel half couplings, the price listed there is way too high, check around.
Many use these for boiler connections on non-ASME Code boilers. To meet Code, use 3000 # Thread-o-lets, A-105 material.
I'd need 7 in half inch. 1 for main steam, 1 for aux steam, 2 for the glass, 3 for try cocks mounted to the boiler.
ANS: OK, 1/4 or 3/8 for try cocks would be OK too.
What size is standard for blow down? 3/4 inch or 1 inch?
ANS: Put in at least 2 x 1 inch washout connections near bottom of shell. Plug these with 1 x 1/2 bushings and you have 2 blowdown connections, each 1/2 inch.
I need to look into safeties still but if someone experienced could tell me what size safety I need I'd very much appreciate it.
ANS: 1/2 inch safety connection is right. The smallest size will pass far more steam than your boiler will generate. Conbranco makes a 3/8 valve, but all the other manufacturers make 1/2 as the smallest offering, so use 1/2 inch. You can always bush down if you get a 3/8 valve.
Finally do I want a 1/2 inch feed water or a size smaller 3/8 maybe?
ANS: Use 1/2 inch feedwater connection, 3/8 would be OK, but you probably will put a smaller tube inside the shell thru this connection to distribute the feedwater.
Found a long piece of 1 inch brass hexagon bar, it will soon be a atomizing burner... I'll take pictures and start a new topic in non engines and boilers.
ANS: A new topic for burners should go into: Technical - Engines & Boilers, I would think, as this is really part of the boiler.
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- Conbranco SRV.jpg (11.01 KiB) Viewed 8614 times
Re: From napkins to fabrication VFT boiler design
so I'm a bit confused... and I still don't know enough to make this decision alone.
You want to keep 10 inside diameters of the tubes submerged correct?
If that is the case I need smaller tubes.
1.5" 13ga. tubes have an ID of 1.31" times ten and you get 13" of tube should be under water. My shell is only 13" tall so that won't work.
If I were to change to 1.25" 13ga. tubes, 10" should be under water. That would leave less than 2.5" above the surface of the water to hold steam and the main steam fitting would have no separator making priming a possibility since the main line's center will be marked .375 below the bottom of the top tube plate. sounds like even 1.25 inchers are nicht gut.
Perhaps 1" tubes would be a better choice as 8" should be under water following the 10 ID submerged rule. And inchers I could layout and drill right here in our shop... (may take a while with 85+ though)
Any way, what do ya think?
Josh
You want to keep 10 inside diameters of the tubes submerged correct?
If that is the case I need smaller tubes.
1.5" 13ga. tubes have an ID of 1.31" times ten and you get 13" of tube should be under water. My shell is only 13" tall so that won't work.If I were to change to 1.25" 13ga. tubes, 10" should be under water. That would leave less than 2.5" above the surface of the water to hold steam and the main steam fitting would have no separator making priming a possibility since the main line's center will be marked .375 below the bottom of the top tube plate. sounds like even 1.25 inchers are nicht gut.
Perhaps 1" tubes would be a better choice as 8" should be under water following the 10 ID submerged rule. And inchers I could layout and drill right here in our shop... (may take a while with 85+ though)
Any way, what do ya think?
Josh