Lunk Whistle

[JonRiley56]

Howdy,

I just picked up a couple of Lunkenheimer whistles. One of them is leaking thought the valve. Has anyone ever pulled one of these apart ? Looking through the inlet I can see that the metal valve seat has some surface rust. I assume that the seat is just metal on metal. Is that correct ? It also looks like the way to open it is to remove the large nut on the opposite side from the leverl.

If that is true does anybody have any advice on how to break it loose ? It is a big whistle so the nut is substantial. PB Blaster ? Heat ? ??

jon

[marinesteam]

Jon,

The "nut" (usually a threaded cap & hex) on the side opposite of the lever retains a spring which pushes the valve against the seat. A good soak with penetrating oil should loosen things up enough to allow the use of a good open end or adjustable wrench (no pipe wrenches). Make sure it fits the nut well as the bronze is fairly soft and it's easy to round off the corners of the hex with a poorly fitting wrench. Pay attention to how it comes apart. The valve seat is metal on metal. If a good cleaning with a Scotch-Bright pad should take care of the leak unless the valve is pitted.

Post pics if you get a chance.

Ken

[fredrosse]

I would recommend either Kroil or Hoppe's No. 9 Solvent rather than penetrating oil. These products have worked at losening frozen parts far more effectively than penetrating oil for me.

[JonRiley56]

Thanks Guys !

Fred, Where Do I find those products ? Is it something I can buy off the shelf at an autoparts place or do I need to order them on line ?

jon

[fredrosse]

Kroil is somewhat a specialty item, but several supply houses have it, even available on e-bay. On the website they say it works or you don't pay. Hoppe's No. 9 is a strong solvent used to clean firearms, and is available at all sporting goods stores that sell guns.

[JonRiley56]

Thanks Fred,

I will get some Kroil on the way.

jon