Wood finish

[DetroiTug]

Fred,

Epifanes is the best varnish I've ever used. I did my Chris Craft the last time in 2001, West system sealed, 2 coats, Epifanes over that, several coats, still looks good. Epifanes has a lot of tung oil in it, keeps it soft and well adhered. Deks Ole' is supposed to be as good, but I've never tried it. All the other polyurethanes, oil-based etc. varnishes in my experience just do not hold up. Any varnish needs to be re-coated every spring if left out through the summer. The UV protection diminishes over time.

-Ron

[gondolier88]

I am having some trouble with varnish over epoxy. All my decks have a coating og epoxy over plywood. The epoxy looks good, but I wanted to provide protection of the epoxy from sunlight damage, so I covered the epoxy with UV resistant spar varnish. In some places the varnish has poor adhesion, and can be flaked off with my fingernail. Other places the varnish is stuck onto the epoxy very well. As stated over and over, epoxy needs varnish for UV protection from sunlight.

Does anyone know of a solvent for varnish (varnish removal) that will not touch the epoxy under the varnish? I have tried Acetone, with no softening of the varnish, and Acetone cuts almost everything (except epoxy, and evidently varnish).

Is there a particular brand of varnish that will last a few years protecting the epoxy from sunlight damage?

Thanks in advance for answers here.

You need to use cellulose thinners as epoxy is cellulose based, wipe a rag soaked in cell.thin.'s over the epoxy, making sure it is completely cured first. To get the best finish an orbital sander with a minimum 120grit paper on lubricated with white spirit/turps over the epoxy, then wipe with cell.thin.'s- use this as your final tack-cloth wipe and varnish from there.

Greg

[johnp]

i'm thinking of redoing the oak with mahogany, i'm not sure the oak laminate plywood will hold up once i start sanding. any thoughts would be appreciated. What i'm doing right and what i'm doing wrong.

[mtnman]

Varnish is either Turpentine based or Mineral Spirits based. 0000 Steel wool dipped in the appropriate thinner and elbow grease, wipe regularly with terrycloth rag. Either one is pretty mild and shouldn't affect epoxy.

[artemis]

Varnish is either Turpentine based or Mineral Spirits based. 0000 Steel wool dipped in the appropriate thinner and elbow grease, wipe regularly with terrycloth rag. Either one is pretty mild and shouldn't affect epoxy.

DO NOT steel wool anywhere on a boat! Splinters of steel wood will be caught in the existing surface and after being covered with a finish will become exposed again and rust, producing a look of speckled fish. This problem does not occur with bronze wool.

[mtnman]

Varnish is either Turpentine based or Mineral Spirits based. 0000 Steel wool dipped in the appropriate thinner and elbow grease, wipe regularly with terrycloth rag. Either one is pretty mild and shouldn't affect epoxy.

DO NOT steel wool anywhere on a boat! Splinters of steel wood will be caught in the existing surface and after being covered with a finish will become exposed again and rust, producing a look of speckled fish. This problem does not occur with bronze wool.

Good point! I guess you could also use Scotch-Brite. Most of my experience with varnish has come from cleaning up Antique furniture at my Antique Store. No rust problems with furniture.

[preaton]

I am having some trouble with varnish over epoxy. All my decks have a coating og epoxy over plywood. The epoxy looks good, but I wanted to provide protection of the epoxy from sunlight damage, so I covered the epoxy with UV resistant spar varnish. In some places the varnish has poor adhesion, and can be flaked off with my fingernail. Other places the varnish is stuck onto the epoxy very well. As stated over and over, epoxy needs varnish for UV protection from sunlight.

Fred your problem was probably amine blush. Most epoxies on going off sweat this stuff out. Stops adhesion of the next layer. Easy to get rid of as it is water soluble. I just use a green "Scotchbite" pad (if you know what I mean) with copious water. West Systems is particularly prone. The other thing I do is use Peelply when sheathing. The amines go with the Peelply.

Cheers

Paul