Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
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- Lighting the Boiler
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Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Can anyone tell me whether they know of any examples of this boat that have actually been built?
As a total beginner, the idea of a boat designed specifially for steam power, along with a recommended engine and boiler, appeals to me.
I recently saw an ad for a boat for sale in the UK of about the same size. That impressed me was how every inch of space was used. In a lot of boats, the space at the stern and bow seem to be completely wasted.
Selway-Fisher in the UK offers a plan for a stitch and tape steam launch that is a couple of feet longer than Traveler. but even the "study" pans run something like 30 UK pounds.
My desire, which might not be practial, is for a boat with a permant (as opposed to canvas) roof that can be enclosed by snapping clear plastic panels into place. Any input on this? Thanks very much.
As a total beginner, the idea of a boat designed specifially for steam power, along with a recommended engine and boiler, appeals to me.
I recently saw an ad for a boat for sale in the UK of about the same size. That impressed me was how every inch of space was used. In a lot of boats, the space at the stern and bow seem to be completely wasted.
Selway-Fisher in the UK offers a plan for a stitch and tape steam launch that is a couple of feet longer than Traveler. but even the "study" pans run something like 30 UK pounds.
My desire, which might not be practial, is for a boat with a permant (as opposed to canvas) roof that can be enclosed by snapping clear plastic panels into place. Any input on this? Thanks very much.
- fredrosse
- Full Steam Ahead
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
You might want to consider converting a small planing sailboat hull into a steamer. The cost is very low if you get one with a broken mast or bad sails.
Conversion to a propeller driven steamboat hull is very easy. Having recently built a 20 ft plywood steamer hull, and also done the fiberglass sailboat hull conversion, I would say the Fiberglass Hull conversion cost is about 5% of the Plywood Hull, and the Labor Cost is also at about 5% of the plywood build.
I built an all electric inboard from a fiberglass sailboat hull, to run around with the steamboats in my area while building a plywood sidewheeler. The boat has held up well for 6 years now, and is suited for a small steam plant. I intend to make this little electric into a fast steamer this summer.
A good summary of the conversion process is outlined on the Yahoo Group “Electricboats” under “Files”, “Building a Javelin Electric.pdf”
Conversion to a propeller driven steamboat hull is very easy. Having recently built a 20 ft plywood steamer hull, and also done the fiberglass sailboat hull conversion, I would say the Fiberglass Hull conversion cost is about 5% of the Plywood Hull, and the Labor Cost is also at about 5% of the plywood build.
I built an all electric inboard from a fiberglass sailboat hull, to run around with the steamboats in my area while building a plywood sidewheeler. The boat has held up well for 6 years now, and is suited for a small steam plant. I intend to make this little electric into a fast steamer this summer.
A good summary of the conversion process is outlined on the Yahoo Group “Electricboats” under “Files”, “Building a Javelin Electric.pdf”
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Last edited by fredrosse on Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
- fredrosse
- Full Steam Ahead
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
As far as the canopy goes, if you are going to trailer the boat then it would probably be a good idea to allow lowering of the canopy. The sidewheeler Margaret S has a "swing up" canopy, keeps everything within the hull when cruising down the freeway at 80 MPH, and is up in place within 5 minutes after arrival at the boat launch ramp. I think almost all of the trailered steamers lower their canopy when on the highway.
- fredrosse
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Found a decent picture of the sidewheeler with its "fold down" canopy. The support colums are pivoted on the gunwales, so the entire canopy lowers onto the stern of the boat, becomes like a hatch cover over the entire stern opening. With the canopy down the operator seat is usable.
The canopy is 1/4 inch plywood, with 3/4 x 2 inch perimeter framing, and ribs 16 inches on center, screwed and glued. One can stand on this when the canopy is down, but it certianly won't take any serious dancing!
There is a similar forward canopy, but I have not yet gotten the colums and pivots in place. I need to get a "round tuit". I do however use the forward canopy when trailering, and stow it in the trailermobile before launching.
The canopy is 1/4 inch plywood, with 3/4 x 2 inch perimeter framing, and ribs 16 inches on center, screwed and glued. One can stand on this when the canopy is down, but it certianly won't take any serious dancing!
There is a similar forward canopy, but I have not yet gotten the colums and pivots in place. I need to get a "round tuit". I do however use the forward canopy when trailering, and stow it in the trailermobile before launching.
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- Lighting the Boiler
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Thanks for the information and the pictures. I think that's the best picture of your boat that I've ever seen. I had wondered whether a canopy on a boat being towed would act like a horizontal sail, or if there was some way around that. I suppose another solution might be to use metal stanchions that fit into sockets on the boat that can be taken down and the canopy stored somehow. Perhaps not the easiest thing to do on your own, which I'm likely to be.
At the moment I own a 1965 Chrysler New Yorker with a 413 wedge (not the high performance version, but still has 325 hp). With a set of heavy duty shocks on the rear, and a beefier cooling fan, it would probably make quite a good towing vehicle.
I also own a 1954 Chrysler Imperial with the original Chrysler 331 hemi, and it would probably do ok as a towing vehicle too, but I'm rather reluctant on that one, though I think its frame came out of a Sherman tank. Anyway, if the boat project ever goes ahead, one of them is unfortunately going to have to go.
At the moment I own a 1965 Chrysler New Yorker with a 413 wedge (not the high performance version, but still has 325 hp). With a set of heavy duty shocks on the rear, and a beefier cooling fan, it would probably make quite a good towing vehicle.
I also own a 1954 Chrysler Imperial with the original Chrysler 331 hemi, and it would probably do ok as a towing vehicle too, but I'm rather reluctant on that one, though I think its frame came out of a Sherman tank. Anyway, if the boat project ever goes ahead, one of them is unfortunately going to have to go.
- Lopez Mike
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Bart??? Time to show people how your canopy snuggles down for transport!!
That 413 would make short work of towing a small steam launch. Whether you could afford the gas is another consideration. I have an 85 Ford class B RV that is sitting parked right now and getting 10 mpg.
My 1990 Ranger PU with a 4 liter and automatic easily takes off with my 24 foot boat and handles launch ramps just fine. Now if you want to cruise at 70 over mountain passes, you are on your own. I toodle along at 55 in the slow lane and avoid rush hour.
I love electric trailer brakes. You can adjust them for conditions. No backing up problems. And I'm amazed at how well they seem to survive salt water submersions. Of course I wash the heck out of them regularly and keep pumping the grease to the bearing buddies.
If you are building your own trailer, make sure that any tubular or square tubing is completely welded shut. Not even a bolt hole for water to intrude. The inside is where the corrosion really takes off. And it costs less than you might think to have sub assemblies hot dip galvanized.
Mike
That 413 would make short work of towing a small steam launch. Whether you could afford the gas is another consideration. I have an 85 Ford class B RV that is sitting parked right now and getting 10 mpg.
My 1990 Ranger PU with a 4 liter and automatic easily takes off with my 24 foot boat and handles launch ramps just fine. Now if you want to cruise at 70 over mountain passes, you are on your own. I toodle along at 55 in the slow lane and avoid rush hour.
I love electric trailer brakes. You can adjust them for conditions. No backing up problems. And I'm amazed at how well they seem to survive salt water submersions. Of course I wash the heck out of them regularly and keep pumping the grease to the bearing buddies.
If you are building your own trailer, make sure that any tubular or square tubing is completely welded shut. Not even a bolt hole for water to intrude. The inside is where the corrosion really takes off. And it costs less than you might think to have sub assemblies hot dip galvanized.
Mike
If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito.
Dalai Lama
Dalai Lama
- fredrosse
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Roger, perhaps there is some planetary alignment, one of my favorite automobiles I have owned was a 1966 Chrysler Newport Convert. Bought it new way back then, decided what I wanted (White Newport, Black top, Regular Engine, Automatic, Power steering, no power brakes, Small hubcaps, black sidewall tires) we went to the Chrysler dealer to order it. It was the debut day for the new cars, and as the salesman was taking my order, they opened the shodroom overhead door, and wheeled in a bran new White Newport, Black top, Automatic, Power steering, no power brakes, Small hubcaps, black sidewall tires, but with a big engine, I don't know what size (I was a Motorcycle nut back then) but it had 2 x 4 barrel carbs. I drove out with it that evening. What a monster car, loved it. About 10 years later I bough another 66 Newport, 2 door coupe, with a 389, also loved that one.
When I was a kid my father bough a 1956 Imperial, that one had a hemi engine, and was my first experience of 120 MPH, on the PA turnpike (dad wanted to try it out).
When I was a kid my father bough a 1956 Imperial, that one had a hemi engine, and was my first experience of 120 MPH, on the PA turnpike (dad wanted to try it out).
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Without dragging a trailer, the '65 New Yorker gets 14/15 mpg. It seems to run ok on intermediate-octane fuel, but with a 23-gallon tank I practically have to take out a bank loan to fill it. I would definitely hang out in the slow lane. Building a trailer is unfortunately beyond my abilities, and I lost a valuable resource in the form of my older brother who was an RV dealership service manager when he died of cancer five years ago.
My "daily driver" is a 2004 Hyundai Elantra, and I have seen cars that small towing boats, though I don't know how heavy the boats are. There may be a warranty issue as well.
I appreciate all the input and advice, but it's starting to look like if there are any examples of the Traveler in existence, nobody seems to know about them. Ideally I'd like something a little longer (and yes, I know there is a formula for calculating how much you can increase a design's length, but I have to find it again).
Thanks again, everyone!
My "daily driver" is a 2004 Hyundai Elantra, and I have seen cars that small towing boats, though I don't know how heavy the boats are. There may be a warranty issue as well.
I appreciate all the input and advice, but it's starting to look like if there are any examples of the Traveler in existence, nobody seems to know about them. Ideally I'd like something a little longer (and yes, I know there is a formula for calculating how much you can increase a design's length, but I have to find it again).
Thanks again, everyone!
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
Check out the boat ramps you intend to use most often.Some are too steep for anything but a four wheel drive.My boat and truck [Ford 150 4X4] handled any boat ramp I encountered but it was terribly slow on the hills.On one long hill the old Ford crested at 28 K-My Ram [with a Cummings] pulls the same hill at 85K! But speed isn't the problem-Stopping is! I rebuilt my trailer and installed disc brakes on all four wheels. And then there's tongue weight-not too much on the tow-car and most on the trailer wheels.Otherwise some serious handling problems will occur. Having the boat adjustable on the trailer until you can "dial" in the right weight proportion will help immencely.Our laws in BC require brakes after 2800 lb but if you are towing with a 3000 lb vehicle a 2000 lb trailer might want to push all over the road. Remember you can probably tow anything down the road and get anyway with it- But- Will you be able to handle an emergency situation? I have a friend who also has a large boat and a compact pick-up.Solution I tow him! Pay a buddy a tank of gas or hire a wrecker-It's way cheaper than paying $50000 for a super pickup! Den
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Re: Reliable Steam "Traveler" design
My theory about towing vehicles is this: By the time the launch is finished, I'll get a vehicle that suits. What I have now will long since have mouldered into rust.
Steve