The Steamboating Forum

Good evening Brothers,
This is a revision to my earlier posting seeking a "poppet valve" for TULE PRINCESS. From my investigations and frustrations in getting my defective valve serviced here by local engine machinists that came highly recommended, I am now BEYOND putting up with any more BS or Cost in trying to fix our existing valve. I have to find NEW. Hopefully from a source that will only sell me the BODY section ONLY. What I need to replace is a 1"NPT Union Connection - Hoffman 1140-05 Body/Valve unit. I don't have ANY use for the Thermostatic Temperature Probe section; just the Valve BODY.

From STATE SUPPLY the entire Thermostatic Temperature Control Unit costs almost $2K - half of which will be tossed. Makes not sense to me. Why can't a fellow get JUST the Body, from somewhere....???? Also, Ebay does not have any offerings for a 1" - 05 Body Style.

TULE has now been down going on 9 weeks in my attempts to get the valve new valve heads, then new valve seats, then they broke the lifting rod, told me she was fixed and able to hold pressure....only to have installed the valve and the problem is still there. Hate to be BS'ed and dismissed as just an ol'steamboat guy. Clearly we will not be using that shop again.

So, my rant is done. PLEASE let me know if you know of a possible source other than STATE SUPPLY or Ebay.

Thanks Guys! ( Sorry for the negative rant - this makes our second summer where COVID & Mechanical issues have plagued us. God has a way. I have to remain patient and faithful. )

Goodnight,
Capt. Mack

Show us where that valve goes and it's purpose. Whats wrong with just piping in a 1" union and steam rated ball valve?

DetroiTug wrote: ↑Fri Aug 13, 2021 3:37 am Show us where that valve goes and it's purpose. Whats wrong with just piping in a 1" union and steam rated ball valve?

I believe his engine was constructed using these as the valving.

He doesn't have the space for anything larger, He can't remake the engine from scratch.

I don't think a ball valve will last longer in this application even assuming it would magically fit.

I wonder if there is a company that makes a compatible part...

-CB

These valves are both Intake (2) & Exhaust (2) on TULE's Walking-beam Engine, design circa 1877.

Pic 1 is the defective valve, Bottom Right Intake.
Pic 2 is the Valve Action Cam Assembly.

Once clear of the dock, these engines switch over from manual timing action to engaged eccentric activated self timing.

Ball valve would not work for this assembly.

Capt. Mack

This is TULE's Walking-beam Valve Action Cam Assembly.

I'd get with someone who has pattern making and machining skills and have a new body cast and then machined. Go on some of the scale locomotive, or home shop machinist forums, this is routine for them.

What about altering a 1'' whistle valve? Which is essentially a poppet valve

My guess as to whats wrong with yours is the guides are worn or the valve stem is bent or worn. Those types of valves need everything tight and perfect alignment.

One option for casting a valve body is Cattail Foundry.

It is an Amish man in Pennsylvania, so leave a phone message and he will get back to you.

He specializes in casting any parts for use by steam enthusiasts. He might be able to use your valve as a pattern?

717-768-7323
Emunal J King
167 W Cattail RD
Gordonville PA 17529

From what I understand the castings from Cattail are high in quality and reasonable in price.

More discussion about Cattail Foundry:
https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/ ... ber.95855/

I haven't used Cattail myself yet, but I had a steam traction engine friend who made a pattern that cattail cast and what I was shown was quite fine.

-CB

Call these guys https://www.macombgroup.com/

It appears from the catalog https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... ThFxrrngzJthat the actuator & valves are different part numbers and should be available separately. There are multiple body styles for this series but the catalog should give you that part number for what you need.

Cheers

Ken

I found your other thread that shows the valve inside. I Would bore out the old seats and thread them, then make and install stainless seats. Stainless stem and valves also. Then bore out the valve guides and line with 932 bronze. With those tiny bronze contact area valves and seats it was never intended for that type of repetitive service. A new valve would likely only last a season of daily running, you've likely ran the engine more than its ever been ran.

You need a machinist (real one)

"It is an Amish man in Pennsylvania, so leave a phone message and he will get back to you."

Is that true, I thought the Amish sect of the Mennonites did not use phones, nor electricity, nor zippers, etc. Maybe he is one of the other Mennonite sects, "Black Bumper Mennonites", you'll find no fancy chrome on their cars, 35ers, use modern machinery, but but steel wheels on any new tractor. New wave Mennonites, don't seek entertainment, but OK if it comes their way, etc.