The Steamboating Forum

Hi,

my little STUART Launch twin need an extra drip of steam oil into the cylinder after running, but there was no possibility to do it. So i drilled through the cylinder cover and cut an M5x0.5 mm thread.
While running the engine it is closed with a hexagonal bolt with a special TEFLON seal. This is supported on the outside by a brass ring that is slightly flatter than the seal. It ist steamtight and it is possible to open by hand after running.

Some pics.
Best Dietrich

Nice maintenance solution for a nice engine!
RussN

A bit of compounded cylinder oil on shutdown really helps keep the rust monster away. This is a nicer solution than the 1/8" pipe plugs I used... one might even devise a wooden handle/knob to allow doing it while the engine is still warm.

- Bart

I like the idea of a decent sized hole for such lubrication. I have a question though.

I have no cylinder oil on my boat. I have had good service with steam lubrication. But I DO wish to lubricate my cylinders between periods of use.

I wonder if the oil I use for external engine lubrication would work adequately? It's just chain lubricant for a gasoline chain saw. If not, I would be up for changing my external lube oil so that it could do double duty.

Mike

Mike:
I have the same concern with my Blackstaffe steeple compound engine. ANY oil getting from the engine into the hot well would be bad.
So what oil would preserve the engine, and then "wash away" so as not to get into the boiler?
I don't have a way to pipe the exhaust directly to atmosphere without going through the condenser under the hull.

Then again, internal disassembly and inspection of the engine after 50+ years of operation showed no rust problems!
Maybe best to just leave it alone...
RussN

Since the oil in the cylinder will end up in the condenser and hotwell, something easy to remove is best (e.g. not compounded - no animal fats). However, compounded oils stick best, and are easy (600W) to obtain in 5 gallon pails. The latter is also an excellent lube for indexing heads, etc.

Absent something better, way oil or chainsaw bar oil works well, and has tackifiers to help it stick.
A bit of TSP in the boiler helps.

- Bart

Dietrich,

You're very good at making things. A permanent solution for this and condensing systems is a double valve tallow cup. Cup on top to place oil, originally tallow that would melt, then two taper valves in line and threaded into the cylinder head. Place oil in bowl, close the bottom valve, open the top valve, oil runs in, close the top valve, open the bottom valve and the oil goes in the cylinder, close both valves (cocks). Works while the engine is running as often as you want. Easy lathe job.

My engine has single valve cups with a threaded cap. Works the same way.

Some use the one shot ''elephant foot'' oilers in the steam line and give it a shot at shutdown.

Ron

Ron,

thank you for your suggestions. Because the engine will work in a little loco there is too little space for cup oilers.

Here a sketch without any dimensions to show the principle of the bolt.

Dietrich

Well done! I installed a similar set up on the engine in my Vividus, except for having cylindrical sealing with an o-ring in place of the face sealing that you used. No need to wrench tight with cylindrical sealing.

I make a point of turning the prop regularly when she is laid up, and any time I feel the resistance to turning increase, she gets a few drops of oil. My only regret is that I didn't install two more cups over the slide valves.

RNoe wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 4:01 pm Nice maintenance solution for a nice engine!

Agree.

We have very similar on our engine (large Leak compound) all be it with copper crush washer.

The HP also has a pressure relief valve and piston valve, LP is slide valve so just a plug.