The Steamboating Forum

Hi,

the cover of the insulation is finished with EPIFANES and held in place with two bands of brass and screws.
Dietrich

Hello,

i have calculated the ports and found them a bit small (154 mm²). So i have drilled two 8 mm-holes each side next to the ports (2 x 50,26 mm²). It is three times of the size of the drawings and enough. Optimal would be 260 mm² for 20 m/s steam speed at 750 rpm.



-Dietrich

Dietrich
Nice work on the interesting cylinder design. The gun metal wear surfaces should work well.
Thanks for sharing.
RussN

Hello,

because the cylinder covers were too shallow i have soldered two 8 mm discs of gun metal in place. That was a bit terrible but with a 75 kW-PROPANE-Burner the work was done successful.


Then i have it turned them to the right dimensions and milled the slots for steam and condensate.


Then was removed some material from the upper cover and soldered in some parts, so the gaps can filled with insulation and close it with a polished disc..


to be continued
-Dietrich

Hello,

here some more pics. All bolts were replaced with black ones and turned brass washers to prevent the parts from grooves.


to be continued
-Dietrich

Hello,

all aluminium parts were black anodized to prevent them from oxidation and also because it looks better - "Das Auge isst mit."


The base plate was revised and get some new attachment holes closer to the edge. The older ones were closed with brass parts. My wife thought it was very nice.


to be continued
-Dietrich

Hello,

the crosshead guide is a bit shorter than drawn - there was only a short pipe in the builders shop. So it was slotted completely at one side to allow the croshead bolt to move the stroke. So it was not round at its lower end and the crosshead could move in its lower dead center - there was a little knocking. I have turned a ring from stainless steel (1.4305). It is clamped to the guide and held in position with four screws.


to be continued
- Dietrich

After seeing this I must wrap my engine in a bag so no one can ever see it.

I am humbled by your composite engine.

I don't think I've heard or seen a steam engine with quite so many materials, aluminum, brass, gunmetal, cast iron, stainless steel, steel? black-oxide fasteners, cork, wood, Epifanes varnish, glue.

1) I think a fair question would be how do you "control" the contraction/expansion of so many differing materials?
Most of what I recognize are fasteners and glue, and maybe that's all it takes?

2) Also, what about galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals?
I did note that at least some if not aluminum parts are all anodized.

dampfspieler wrote: ↑Fri Oct 11, 2019 1:33 pm "Das Auge isst mit.

Auf Englisch, Eye Candy.

-CB

Hi Mike,

don`t do so.

Hi Bart,

thank you, now i know a new idiom.

The valve rod was new built from stainless steel (1.4305) and also the valve nut and valve rod yoke.
The valve nut is drilled and slotted, so it is a clamp with two screws. The valve rod is shorter then drawn. There were no problems while the engine was steam tested because it is long guided. The yokes bolt is new built so it can screwed in and couldn't rotate while running.


to be continued
-Dietrich