The Steamboating Forum

Kelly Anderson wrote:Ronnie Baird offers these pumps; http://www.tinypower.com/store.php?crn= ... =cat_click .

My first boiler came with a Ronnie Baird/Rappahannock Boat works Hand Pump - HP-3.

They sell them as a casting kit.

What I'm saying below is nothing against "Ronnie Baird/Rappahannock Boat works".

I think it was poorly machined whoever machined it.

It was really tough to pump it by hand with no water or pressure anywhere. I abanandoned it pretty quickly.

I think even if it was machined correctly, It wouldn't have kept up with my first boiler, and it certainly won't keep up my second. (On land or water)

But since Kelly Anderson posted, I'm taking my HP-3 apart and see if I can spruce it up and make it function like it should. Either to use it myself or put it up for sale....

-CB

http://www.neptunepump.com/pt-pump.html

This is the pump you want.

It is very similar (maybe identical?) to what Beckman sells. Mine cost $300 (for the bronze version) from Neptune about 8 years ago. It's a big pump, both in dimensions and capacity, and it works beautifully. I have steamed my 3x4 single at a moderate cruise rate for hours using it to do 100% of boiler feeding. Took some effort, but no so much that it interfered with other skipper/engineer tasks, or with enjoying the cruise.

Not to mention that I think it's still made in the USA, and it just looks appropriate on board a steamer.

Cheers,
Scott

What is the bore on that pump?

From memory, I think it's around 1.5" bore (it's out of state in winter storage at the moment). The handle is cast aluminium, and long enough to provide leverage for pretty intensive usage at 80 or 100 PSI. It's supposed to be good for 500. That seems a bit much, but I can testify to 250 being no problem, at least for a hydro.

Cheers,
Scott

cyberbadger wrote:

Kelly Anderson wrote:Ronnie Baird offers these pumps; http://www.tinypower.com/store.php?crn= ... =cat_click .

My first boiler came with a Ronnie Baird/Rappahannock Boat works Hand Pump - HP-3.

They sell them as a casting kit.

What I'm saying below is nothing against "Ronnie Baird/Rappahannock Boat works".

I think it was poorly machined whoever machined it.

It was really tough to pump it by hand with no water or pressure anywhere. I abanandoned it pretty quickly.

I think even if it was machined correctly, It wouldn't have kept up with my first boiler, and it certainly won't keep up my second. (On land or water)

But since Kelly Anderson posted, I'm taking my HP-3 apart and see if I can spruce it up and make it function like it should. Either to use it myself or put it up for sale....

-CB

I've built two of the HP-3 pumps, one is still on the tug as a back up feedpump which it works real well for that. The other was intended to use as a manual feedpump and it was too small (my boiler is 24" dia X 42" tall 42 sq ft), I now use it for hydrotesting. Any of these pumps dry are difficult to pump and yours being new it was probably just built close, it will wear in over time. I installed a grease fitting on top of the one in the tug over the ram and shoot it with some white lithium grease occasionally, that makes it work very free. The one on the engine has been running for three years extensively, the only thing I've done to it is replace the O-ring on the piston once. I've seen steamers make feedpumps out of simple brass pipe and the piston/ram is just a piece of barstock with O-rings and they work just fine although not aesthetically pleasing.

The check valves are the problems with pumps. Use a strainer on the supply and good check valves. Balls in fittings etc has not proven to be very effective in my experience. In line soft seat check valves like those used in hydraulic applications are the most reliable. On the tug and the car I had the same problem when not taking feedwater, the economizer pressure built and pushed back through the leaky brass seat check valves at the pump and blew all the water out of the pump circuit. This valve mounted right at the economizer entry fixed both of them.

This one:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7838k54/=vcku18

-Ron

I use a couple of those on each side of my hand pump but still have a regular swinging type check valve at the boiler shut off valve. I didn't trust the polymer seat with steam.

My Hypro engine pump has internal checks but I also have a swinger at the boiler.

Mike, same here on tug and car. Swing check at the boiler entry, exit side of the economizer.

-Ron

SL Ethel wrote:http://www.neptunepump.com/pt-pump.html

This is the pump you want.

It is very similar (maybe identical?) to what Beckman sells. Mine cost $300 (for the bronze version) from Neptune about 8 years ago. It's a big pump, both in dimensions and capacity, and it works beautifully. I have steamed my 3x4 single at a moderate cruise rate for hours using it to do 100% of boiler feeding. Took some effort, but no so much that it interfered with other skipper/engineer tasks, or with enjoying the cruise.

Not to mention that I think it's still made in the USA, and it just looks appropriate on board a steamer.

Cheers,
Scott

PT_100 Cast Iron pressure test pump $284.90 USD

PT_200 Brass pressure test pump $365.12 USD

Pricing does not include shipping costs.
And this is assuming that shipment will be within the United States, otherwise
there are other charges that would apply.

Donna Barnshaw
Neptune Pump Manufacturing
QCG Systems LLC
P.O. Box 389
Phoenixville, PA
19460


484-901-4106 phone QCG
800-755-2879 toll free QCG USA
484-901-4105 phone Neptune
800-828-5488 toll free Neptune USA
484-901-4200 fax Neptune/QCG

Just a note for compliance with the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code. The code always requires a check valve, followed by an isolation valve downstream, immediately preceding the economizer or boiler drum connection. I understand that many steamboats are not required to follow this code, but it is highly recommended wherever possible.

I also got some info today from Neptune:

Length of stroke: 3"
Diameter of cylinder - 1 1/2"

-CB