hypro 5300

[lighthousekeeper]

Hi so I'm leaning toward installing the hypro 5300 from what I have read on here it seems every runs the piston pump continually and if the water is not needed in tank you have a bypass. This is what I'm thinking I'm going to install the pump off the engine drive shaft with two pulleys and belt, but have the belt loose and when I want to pump water their will be a third pulley in the middle that I will engage with a leaver that will tighten the loose belt and drive the pump. I hope I explained this ok. Does anyone have and thoughts on this idea ? thanks

[fredrosse]

The bypass valve works well, and is the most simple arrangement. Having a belt style clutch has been used on many lawn implements, such as power mowers, tillers, even snowblowers, and this works well also, although a bit more complicated than the bypass valve method.

[Lopez Mike]

The hotwell float bypass scheme is the best solution. Mine runs so well that I get careless about watching the glass. The level hasn't moved in hours and hours of operating.

With your belt tensioner setup you will have to manually operate it. I believe that's a recipe for poor level control. You'll have enough to do without fussing with feed rates.

My Hypro runs off of the end of the crankshaft at engine speed and keeps ahead of the 3 x 4 single.

[lighthousekeeper]

Hi so when you guys are saying you have a bypass valve , the piston pump is run continually(as long as engine is running) and if your tank level is high you shut of the output on the pump and the water goes into recirculation is this correct? for the moment I'm not running a condenser so my exhaust will be vented to atmosphere. The piston pump will be drawing raw river water, I know this is not going to be efficient but in time I will improve my set up. thanks. j.z.

[DetroiTug]

"Hi so when you guys are saying you have a bypass valve , the piston pump is run continually(as long as engine is running) and if your tank level is high you shut of the output on the pump and the water goes into recirculation is this correct?"

Yes, if you meant boiler instead of tank. For a tank or hotwell I think an automatic float valve bypass is used. As Mike references above.

In the Bible of modern Steamboating "Steamboats and modern steam launches" there are many piping diagrams and explanations of feedwater configurations. If you don't have a copy, try to pick one up. There is a mountain of good information in there. Available from Elliot Bay press.

"The piston pump will be drawing raw river water"

Although, not an ideal water quality plan, it works. My tug draws river water and there has been no issue with that. As much as we run these boilers typically, water quality is not that big of an issue. If the boiler is drained and left open to dry out after each use.

The catch 22 for me is: I won't run an engine without a hydrostatic oiler/lubrication. Some say it's not needed, it's a matter of opinion. The problem is when condensing, this oil which is in the exhaust condensate makes it way back to the hotwell. It cannot be pumped to the boiler so some method of oil separation must be implemented. Every method I've seen seems like a more of a hassle than condensing is worth. If you plan to steam in an area where the water is fresh and free from salts etc., non-condensing can work. But, if it's salt or brackish water then definitely run a condensing system.

-Ron

[cyberbadger]

As much as we run these boilers typically, water quality is not that big of an issue. If the boiler is drained and left open to dry out after each use.

Lighthouse - this aspect is very important. Unfortunately your boiler doesn't have a good orifice low enough to do this well.

The cheapo option is to take a very thin strip of cotton rag and unconnect the pipe on the the lowest orifice and push that strip of cotton rag into the orrifice enough so that it touches the bottom tubesheet on the inside, drape the tail of the rag outside the boiler. Capillary action will slowly over wick the water out over time.

Better way - For $15-$20 you can get a 12V DC Self priming pump house and some small diameter clear flexible from a hardware store. Suck any remaining water out, and do the rag method.

Here's an example of a $20 12V DC self priming pump that would do the job:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3806909521 ... =82&chn=ps

For cotton rag, I use a strip from an old white cotton undershirt.

-CB

[DetroiTug]

A small source of heat will dry it out too. Something as simple as a drop light or larger work light with a 300Watt bulb laid in the firebox. Some people build a small paper fire that flares up quick and goes out. I wouldn't suggest that with rolled in tubes. All boilers should have blow down connection(s) at the lowest point. If these do not have them or have them low enough, I would try to get some added.

-Ron

[Lopez Mike]

I blow down as soon as the fire is out. Anywhere from 10 to 80 psi on the gauge. When it's done the inside of my boiler is as dry as a desert.

That said, I don't blow down that often as what's in there is very pure and of the right pH as I have a condensing power plant.

Given the cost and labor of repairing a boiler, I find that the addition of a condenser is a minor thing. With a small bit of TSP to keep the pH under control I expect my VFT to far outlast the engine.