Paint

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Lopez Mike
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Re: Paint

Post by Lopez Mike » Fri Jan 19, 2018 11:51 am

Well, tugs are supposed to look 'industrial'. launches are supposed to look sort of effete and for the bloated plutocrats to play with. I'm just a dirt grubbing peasant trying to pass.
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fredrosse
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Re: Paint

Post by fredrosse » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:09 pm

A few more details:

Margaret S. - Marine plywood hull, exterior covered with 10 oz fiberglass cloth, saturated with Epoxy. Just for trial I painted the hull with BEHR Premium Exterior Combination Primer & Finish Coat House Paint. It is semi-gloss latex paint, painting is very easy, water cleanup, one coat for primer and finish.

No sanding or etching of the Epoxy surface, just a wash with Acetone,then rolled on the house paint. Going on the 7th year for the hull of Margaret S, and this paint is holding up very well. Good house paints endure all kinds of weather, spend lots of time wet, certainly far more time than a trailered launch. And the cost is far less than "Marine" branded paints.
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DetroiTug
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Re: Paint

Post by DetroiTug » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:37 pm

""launches are supposed to look sort of effete and for the bloated plutocrats to play with. I'm just a dirt grubbing peasant trying to pass.""

Then it's porch paint and rubbing compound. For the more discriminate patrician observer.

Or just get off some of that cash you have stock-piled and go buy a quart of proper marine paint :lol:

Seriously it does suck a bit paying that much for marine paint, but in most cases especially concerning Varnish it's worth every penny it costs. I learned a long time ago, to not use anything but Epiphanes Varnish, the difference is stark. All of the prep work and time to apply it, the "urethane" anything varnishes do not hold up near as well and it results in a lot of labor to take it all off and start over. Not to mention the damage it can cause by loss of protection. Poor quality paint finishes gave wood boats a bad reputation. I remember back in the late 60's we painted an old wood Larson speedboat with this new latest and greatest Vinyl marine paint. Stuff was terrible, when it dried it literally peeled off like a big sticker :) Poor adhesion.

My Chris Craft had Epiphanes applied in 2003 and it's still on there and it still looks great. Unheated garage kept through some very harsh winters. The Petit topsides shear stripe has held up also.

-Ron
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Lopez Mike
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Re: Paint

Post by Lopez Mike » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:44 pm

I found a bag of quarters in the door pocket of my old pickup. I guess I could spring for some marine paint.
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Oilking
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Re: Paint

Post by Oilking » Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:12 pm

Years back I was repainting a plywood pram, and went to one of the local hardware stores seeking a quart of marine enamel. I was presented with a quart of what was the top grade exterior enamel house paint of the same brand? I was told that they quit stoking the marine label after finding an order of marine paint that had one label over the other. When they removed the outer label they found one saying exterior enamel. Upon confronting the supplier they were told that the top grade exterior enamel and marine enamel were the same paint, the only difference was that you paid more for the marine label?!

Dave
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cyberbadger
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Re: Paint

Post by cyberbadger » Fri Jan 19, 2018 6:12 pm

For an "industrial"? look Nyitra uses oil-based paint.

I find the farm-and-implement paint is a good option. It's made to go on farm equipment and stick on it for years.

I like the quality of Majic Farm and Implement paint like this: http://www.majicpaints.com/products/farm/tti/

Rustoleum also makes a good "Farm and Implement paint"that can fine for topside paints (just not anything that will always be underwater). Splashing and rain work pretty well with this kind of paint.

I throw in 1-2 handfulls of play sand per 1 gallon of paint to make the deck grippy in wet conditions.

-CB
asal0312
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Re: Paint

Post by asal0312 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:12 pm

True oil based topside paint is a thing of the past, I think only one company in the NE anyway still makes it, Kirby. Like I said, can't go wrong with brightside polyurthane. It holds up well. I find myself repainting the boats every other year, the ones that live in the water anyway. My trailered boat is going on six years and it is still glossy. Remember to remove the blush from the epoxy with soap and warm water, sanding it does not remove the wax. This will give you even better adhesion.

From my experience, I avoid Pettit paints (except their varnish). While they flow on really nice, a season in the sun will cause them to chaulk up.

For an even better durable paint, use interlux perfection. Though you have to be setup to use is as it is nasty stuff.

For interior paint, I can not recommend bilgekote by interlux enough. Slap it on and it will look great. Acetone will cut it even when dry however, petroleum won't touch it. Makes it really easy to repair in high use areas. I used it on the entire interior of my launch. With all these paints, follow the manufacturers recommendations exactly for prep and undercoater and you can't lose. I feel like an interlux spokesperson, but I've been happy with it for 25 years....

Alex
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Lopez Mike
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Re: Paint

Post by Lopez Mike » Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:48 pm

Lots of great ideas and input. I'm down with the crud so I will have lots of time to pester paint reps.

Wash your hands after reading this. This stuff is really contagious and evil!
If you think you are too small to make a difference, try sleeping with a mosquito.
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Re: Paint

Post by RGSP » Sat Jan 20, 2018 11:07 am

Lopez Mike wrote:Lots of great ideas and input. I'm down with the crud so I will have lots of time to pester paint reps.

Wash your hands after reading this. This stuff is really contagious and evil!
Mostly I think it's rather sad being 5000 miles + from other forum contributors, but then again...
Get well soon!
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barts
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Re: Paint

Post by barts » Sat Jan 20, 2018 5:33 pm

The most tenacious paints I've ever used are moisture-cured polyurethanes. I used some Red Devil polyu. on Otter' green color stripes 20+ years ago - still looks ok. W/ epoxy, the key is UV blocking; other factors are cosmetic mostly. If a 'yacht' finish is desired, those topside paints are hard to beat. Underwater, you might just paint w/ some bronze colored paint if you're not going to use antifoulong. A good bilge paint will really help on the inside. Bilge-kote is good stuff, I hear from Mark.

- Bart
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Bart Smaalders http://smaalders.net/barts Lopez Island, WA
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