Valve rod packing

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Anne from Little Britan
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Valve rod packing

Post by csonics » Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:53 pm

Posted on behalf of Steve Morrison:

Steve Morrison
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Joined: 14 Sep 2008
Posts: 6

Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 8:55 pm Post subject: Valve rod packing
Could someone give me a heads-up on either a manual or some good tips on replacing the packing around the valve rods. Recently I've noticed a small steam leak. I have a 3 5 4 semple.

Thanks,

Steve
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mcandrew1894
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Joined: 11 Oct 2007
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Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 4:16 am Post subject:
Hi Steve,
Welcome!

Have you tried tightening the packing?....leaky packing is a state of being Im afraid..you don't want it absolutely tight as a little steam leaking by lubricates the rod.....Im talking a very small puff on the HP side. On the LP side I would strive to be tighter if your running with a condenser.

If that doesn't get it we can talk about replacement

Dave
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Steve Morrison
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Joined: 14 Sep 2008
Posts: 6

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 8:43 pm Post subject: Valve Packing
Hi, Thanks Dave.

I am getting some steam out of both. I tried tightening them and made no difference. Now, I only used my favorite 8" adjustable wrench, but I thought they were very tight. ( this is way tighter than any packing on a water valve) The engine is down now while I'm replacing some cocks on the cylinders and a new safety valve.

Steaming season is here now that the high temps are below 80 degrees F. I'm hoping to splash the Linda J soon.

Thanks again,

Steve
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87gn@tahoe
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Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:44 pm Post subject:
A friend of mine has the semple v-compound. I think it's 1/4" or 3/8" packing..

Cut a "rope" long enough to fit the circumference of the valve rod. Cut ends at 45degree angle (opposite directions from eachother so they interlock). You probably want to install a few "ropes" as it sounds like your bottomed out.
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mcandrew1894
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Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:20 pm Post subject:
Wrap the appropriate size packing around the valve stem three or 4 turns or how ever many turns you need.

Now holding the packing tight as it is wrapped around the stem, slice down one side with a razor knife and you will end up with perfectly fitting little rings.

Make extras and put them in a baggy and then in a locker on your boat as spares when you need them on a lee shore in a blow and the packing is blowing steam all over the place........er something like that anyway....

Now when you pull your old packing out and clean the gland, stuff in an equal number of turns of the new packing. Put the joints 180 degrees from eachother.

3 turns should be a minimum....but it depends on the depth of the gland.

Don't over tighten them. A mere wisp of steam coming out is good as the condensate from it makes a great lubricant for the packing......you'll know when it's too tight as it will be dry and the packing with start to smoke.....back it off and then take up slowly again if that happens.


Dave
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farmerden
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Joined: 19 Apr 2008
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Location: Shawnigan Lake,B.C.
Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:00 pm Post subject:
When I rebuilt my engine I always rolled the engine over by hand every time I tightened up another part-just to make sure nothing was binding. Imagine my surprise when I hooked up the LP rod and couldn't turn the engine! Luckily Stan Knowles dropped in at the same time and flat out said "you're packings too tight" without even looking.Of course he was right.I wouldn't have believed one could apply that much resistance with a piece of oily rope Better to have a little steam leaking and we put those engines so low in the boat it's almost impossible to adjust I even put the bifocals on upside down to try and see in there.You recognize me at the meets I'm the guy standing on his head working on the engine! Den

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Maltelec
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 1:38 am Post subject:
That has to be one of the smallest lathes I have ever seen!
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farmerden
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 1:20 pm Post subject:
I tell ya it was hard to fit the crank on it!!
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richard orr
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Joined: 13 Nov 2009
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:27 pm Post subject:
When I attempted to cut some 3/8 graphite impregnated woven cord packing material, it would not cut even though I was using a brand new exacto blade. Had to resort to a hacksaw. This is insain. How in the world is this stuff cut aside from going at it with a bloody bleeding blooming hacksaw ?
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mcandrew1894
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Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:24 pm Post subject:
".....When I attempted to cut some 3/8 graphite impregnated woven cord packing material, it would not cut even though I was using a brand new exacto blade. Had to resort to a hacksaw. This is insain. How in the world is this stuff cut aside from going at it with a bloody bleeding blooming hacksaw ?...."


:

It isn't steel core or have a spring wire in it does it?

Mine cuts just fine as described and is a common way ......please list the brand and or point of purchase as I would like to know


Dave
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richard orr
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 1:11 am Post subject:
I have been working on my 36 foot sternwheeler on and off for some ten years and would have to dig through my records to know for sure which type of packing I ordered from M.S.C. Industrial Supply. But looking through the catalogue, I think it was (graphite impregnated aramid compression packing) which is made of a composit fiber. The only way I managed to cut it was by pinching it in a vice and going at it with a hack saw. Possibly turning it around a similar diameter pipe and slicing it with a dremmel attachment would have worked.
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mcandrew1894
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Posted: Mon Nov 16, 2009 5:29 am Post subject:
Aramid core means Kevlar......that would do it.

It's tough.....

Dave
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