Locomobile
- DetroiTug
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Locomobile
Here are some pics of the car project:
This is a replica of a 1901 Locomobile Style 2 1/2. The engine was completely disassembled and sandblasted then painted. New Stainless piston and valve rods were made. Sealed ball bearings were installed on the new crankshaft and new bronze instead of steel eccentrics were made.
All of the chassis components are copies of the originals and cast in nodular iron. The tubing is Cromoly.
Still have to make the differential which is a casting and bevel gears. Original parts for these are very hard to find. Even information is rather difficult to obtain. I found the original drawings for the 1899 model with a scale, so that has been very helpful. Although the 1901 changes have had to be incorporated.
The Chassis:
Here is the engine: 2.5" + 2.5" X 3.5"
Before:
After:
New Crankshaft and eccentrics:
Here is a CAD drawing of the body that I made from two sets of rather confusing hand sketches. The body is white ash:
The black lines indicate the internal framing the blue lines are the trim and seat.
Here is what I'm hoping this one looks like when I'm done: (with minor differences, this is actually an 02 or 03)
-Ron
This is a replica of a 1901 Locomobile Style 2 1/2. The engine was completely disassembled and sandblasted then painted. New Stainless piston and valve rods were made. Sealed ball bearings were installed on the new crankshaft and new bronze instead of steel eccentrics were made.
All of the chassis components are copies of the originals and cast in nodular iron. The tubing is Cromoly.
Still have to make the differential which is a casting and bevel gears. Original parts for these are very hard to find. Even information is rather difficult to obtain. I found the original drawings for the 1899 model with a scale, so that has been very helpful. Although the 1901 changes have had to be incorporated.
The Chassis:
Here is the engine: 2.5" + 2.5" X 3.5"
Before:
After:
New Crankshaft and eccentrics:
Here is a CAD drawing of the body that I made from two sets of rather confusing hand sketches. The body is white ash:
The black lines indicate the internal framing the blue lines are the trim and seat.
Here is what I'm hoping this one looks like when I'm done: (with minor differences, this is actually an 02 or 03)
-Ron
- DetroiTug
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Re: Locomobile
Making the pattern for the differential casting. It's a chain drive set up.
The casing is on the boiler:
-Ron
The casing is on the boiler:
-Ron
- DetroiTug
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Re: Locomobile
Making patterns from borrowed castings that are copies of the originals.
This is the brake band bracket and steering arm.
-Ron
This is the brake band bracket and steering arm.
-Ron
Re: Locomobile
Don't you LOVE making patterns out of MDF? Such an awesome material!
- DetroiTug
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Re: Locomobile
Yeah the MDF works pretty good. To toughen them up I'm going to coat them all with West system epoxy. It makes them hard as a rock and very strong and waterproof.
-Ron
-Ron
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Re: Locomobile
Ron,
On the advise of the West System engineers, I often heat the mixed epoxy and the work with a heat gun. That makes the liquid penetrate much deeper & really gives a stronger result than thinning the epoxy. I have done a lot of antique car body repair & building with the West System materials.
Jack
On the advise of the West System engineers, I often heat the mixed epoxy and the work with a heat gun. That makes the liquid penetrate much deeper & really gives a stronger result than thinning the epoxy. I have done a lot of antique car body repair & building with the West System materials.
Jack
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Re: Locomobile
Jack,
Do you need to use a slow cure hardener because of the heat gun?
Mike
Do you need to use a slow cure hardener because of the heat gun?
Mike
- DetroiTug
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Re: Locomobile
My experience with Epoxy and heat have not been too pleasant.
I was working on a wood boat out in the sun, putting down a layer of WS Resin with UV hardener. About five minutes after mixing it, it started smoking in the cup and set up hard as a brick. It was supposed to be a 4 hour cure.
-Ron
I was working on a wood boat out in the sun, putting down a layer of WS Resin with UV hardener. About five minutes after mixing it, it started smoking in the cup and set up hard as a brick. It was supposed to be a 4 hour cure.
-Ron
Re: Locomobile
I've used Smith's clear penetrating epoxy with great results. Flows like water and penetrates quite deeply. Great Stuff!